Tuesday, November 3, 2015

Pantries Instead of Silos

     It's November already. Where did the year go? I know that's the perennial question, but this year, in particular, it felt like much of it was spent worrying about drought and fires, especially living where we're surrounded by forests and tall, dry grassy areas. But now, after some soul-quenching rains, fire season is officially over. Even Smokey Bear has trundled off from his post at the Forest Service's fire danger gauge. Let's hope he has a longer hibernation this winter.
     We squeaked by but many north-westerners weren't so fortunate. Nor were many farmers. Fire wasn't their problem (here, at least), but drought certainly was.
The Year's Biggest Farmers' Market
     That was brought home to me in conversations with farmers at a unique annual event where locals can buy bulk quantities of grains, beans, meats and storage vegetables directly from growers, called Fill Your Pantry. It's a great way for farmers to distribute their crops and not have to store them over the winter, selling them little by little at winter farmers' markets, holiday events or local grocers. The idea originated here among small farmers and food activists and has become a cherished fall tradition for locavores and farmers alike. The idea has been adopted in several other communities, as well. SNAP (food stamp) benefits are accepted here, as well they should be.  I helped organize the first event and a few thereafter and am gratified to see that others have continued the tradition. Grain and bean farmers, especially, depend on it as a major distribution venue shortly after harvest. Silos to store grains are very expensive. For many, the earnings from this event cover the debt incurred to plant those crops. 
A Crop of Lessons
     The first event was pure pandemonium since we had no idea how many would show up and were overwhelmed by the crowd. It was held at a farm and a few die-hards biked from town to collect bulk purchases – proof that we live in a unique community. Most vendors were blind-sided by such response, but customers were forgiving and patient as bags were filled and were weighed out and volunteers hauled garden carts full of purchases to customers' cars. It was exhausting, but invigorating, too. We'd struck a nerve. Buying local wasn't just a fad. People really did want quality food from people they knew and were willing to support it. Valuable lessons were learned by vendors (like having measured amounts already packaged!), customers and organizers.
    The success was a powerful message to young farmers wondering if farming really worth the hard work and marginal pay. Yep, they discovered, it is. At least for those who want to build a strong local food system. 
     Thanks to this and other markets and events, people got to know their farmers. When one suffered an accident while repairing his old tractor, coming a fraction of an inch from losing an eye, customers rallied to help with medical expenses (he and his wife, like most young farmers, had no health insurance. “Obama-Care” was yet to appear.) They're still selling at Fill Your Pantries because it's their best market of the year.
The Stories You Don't Hear
     Conversations with farmers, especially those growing dry-land crops like grains and beans, revealed a starker story than one might expect with all the wonderful food on display. Farmers were hit by more than drought. An excruciatingly long dock-workers strike earlier this year meant products shipped elsewhere sat on the docks or missed the window of opportunity altogether. One farm family, who grows both grass seed for export and organic grains for local markets came very close to losing their farm because of effects the strike and drought. Export crops couldn't get out so contracts were lost, and grain yields were way down for lack of moisture (but the quality was very high, as can happen in stressed plants). Oddly, though, grain farmers across the country are getting very low prices for their crops this year. Huh? Someone in the world food chain has a finger on the scales of availability and prices – another force over which farmers have no control. The best way for farmers and consumers to have control is through local events like FYP. Unfortunately, not every farmer and community can do that in this global market.
     We rarely pay attention to the stories behind our food until the price jumps or plummets, and aren't aware that farmers are often “eating” price differences themselves in order to stay competitive, or just to survive. There are many, many stories out there that we all should hear in order to understand the “plumbing” that is our food system, be it global or local. Even locavores rely on both. Next time you're at a farmers' market or somewhere where you have an opportunity to talk with a farmer, ask some questions, she and he would likely appreciate your interest and you might be surprised at what you learn. Your food will likely taste a bit different after that conversation - probably even better. You'll certainly appreciate it more.

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