Local Food is Not a "Fad"

     Yesterday I attended the 9^th annual Local Food Connection at Lane Community College in Eugene. I'd been among the Benton county contingent who helped organize it the first three years, but then got too involved with other events to continue. Some of the original organizers are still going strong, as are the major sponsors.

      The Local Food Connection is designed to bring food producers (farmers, ranchers, fishers, wildcrafters, etc.) together with buyers (processors, restaurants, grocers, schools and institutions). There is, naturally, lots of networking, lots of energy.

Food, Food, Glorious Food!

      Opportunity to connect is the main draw, but the food itself “seals the deal.” Over 30 participating food producers, processors and distributors donate ingredients and while we're busy in the main room, then in workshops, LCC's culinary arts students are busy in the nearby kitchen, turning them into what is a now-legendary buffet. This year, for example: fresh green salad, root vegetables(prepared in various ways, from roasted to pasta sauce, casseroles), beans, pasta (yes, made of local grains), beef (roast, prime rib, meatballs), chicken, pork, albacore, ling cod, quiches, soups, breads, dairy and non-dairy ingredients and spreads, herbs, etc. Oh, and local ice cream for dessert.

      But great food began before dawn when organizers and those who were tabling arrived to set up. Besides the much-appreciated coffee and tea were scones made with Camas Country grains and their gluten-free teff bars. Soon granola, Lochmead milk and Nancy's kefir appeared, and local bagels with Nancy's cream cheese and local hummus spreads. And then a big pot of locally-made Chai. As one who was up before 4:30 a.m. to get there, I was especially grateful. (I attended with Debbie Duhn, publisher of Take Root magazine, a sponsor who also tabled.)

Impressions

      I was really struck by some of the changes in the local food world, comparing this year's event to the first one. For starters, the aforementioned pastries made with all-local ingredients were not available back then. Nor would a gluten-free option have been offered.

      The local food “movement” is definitely not a fad. It's serious business and our communities are stronger for it, both economically and in food security. It continues to evolve at an impressive pace, especially when you consider that it involves sizable pieces of land, and seasonal crops and other food sources (fish and animal cycles).
      A few things that were not workshop topics, but addressed at the Oregon Food Bank table were various ways low-income folks are able to access more fresh food each year, and how rural communities are wresting control of dismal and disappearing food systems through community organizing, like FEASTs (Food, Education, Agricultural Solutions Together). New community gardens and programs that teach folks of all ages how to grow and process their own food crop up each year.  Kids are being introduced to fresh foods at school, and sometimes even grow it themselves in the school yard, then enjoy it in the cafeteria. What will the state of our country's health look like in coming decades because of these important changes?

     Among workshop topics offered this year were ones that were barely if even considered nine years ago: food sensitivities/allergies, food hubs, regional branding and social media.

Leaders in the Field

     Keynote speakers were Danielle and Alex Amarotico, owners of StandingStone Brewery and Restaurant in Ashland. They're doing lots of innovative things and talked about how they've learned to encourage ideas and innovations by their employees and how they've adjusted their hiring practices and employee support to enhance creativity. They also talked about challenges and “failures” that became valuable lessons and stepping stones. It was an impressive presentation and since we had enjoyed our first meal in Ashland at Standing Stone last October, I was especially interested.

Food Allergies

The first workshop I attended was Navigating the Dietary Restrictions Market. It was a little surprising there were no farmers on the panel, but they may be included in the future because those who want to certify such things as gluten-free grains are required to use separate farm equipment and follow certain cleaning standards.

      On the panel was Mandi Bussell, owner of Bussell Sprouts, and who created alternatives to cheese because their first child had a a major cheese allergy. Huge challenges for businesses like hers are the ever-changing definitions and requirements for labeling products. Label changes are very expensive. Interestingly, she's discovered that if you use the word vegan, it turns a lot of people off and they walk away or won't buy the product, even if they tasted it and liked it. Hmmmm. That comment had me examining any prejudices I might have without even realizing it.

      A chef on the panel, Ben Nadolny, said if you have food allergies, you should always let the restaurant know when you make your reservation. Most chefs have options to offer that might not be on the menu. Ask. Don't think you are limited only to what you see on the menu. Good chefs want to work with you because they want their guests to be happy.

      Another panelist introduced a unique concept that is about to be beta-tested in numerous restaurants. She's nutritionist Xena Grossman who joined the panel via Skype (something else not used 9 years ago!) from California. She has developed a computer program (not an app – yet) called Menu Genie for restaurants to help you navigate food sensitivities by entering them online before you see the menu so you'll see only the dishes from which you should choose. Grossman's goal is to price her software as affordable as possible so it will be used widely. Naturally, there are—and will always be—challenges and “speed bumps,” but this program could make eating out a far more comfortable experience for people with food allergies, from mild to serious, and can save both customers and restaurants a lot of time and frustrations. Learn more and watch (maybe even help) this project grow and spread at her website. 

Cycles of Success

      Hundreds of business relationships have been born at the Local Food Connections over the years as new farmers and businesses discover this unique opportunity. It would be interesting to learn about every single story.

      It was at one of the first LFCs that I met a young couple who came to find local vendors because they were planning to open a brewery/restaurant in Corvallis. Their goals seemed ambitious, especially when you consider how wobbly the economy was at the time. My concerns about their potential success proved unfounded, though. Nick and Kristen Arzner have done quite well with Block 15 and have since opened Les Caves, as well!

      Maybe Nick and Kristen will be keynote speakers at the Local Food Connection one day. And maybe you'll happen upon that announcement when you go to their website to check out food allergy options.

      It could happen.