Before Dawn at the Farmers' Market

    The full moon glinted off neat rows of black ground cover and added ghostly illumination to dozens of white greenhouses as I arrived at Tom Denison and Elizabeth Kerle's farm at 3:30 a.m. The market truck was loaded and ready to head to Beaverton's first summer farmers' market (they'd done six winter ones between February and March). Tom and I climbed up into the truck cab and headed out. Elizabeth, a licensed acupuncturist in Corvallis, would be in a training in Eugene all day. Normally, she'd be working the Corvallis Saturday market, which she organizes, along with those in Salem and McMinnville.
     The  moon tagged along on the inky horizon as Tom drove, but was blotted by street lights when we arrived at the market site (a public parking lot across from the library, next to a park) about 5:30 a.m. We were the second truck to arrive. Tom jumped out of his cab to visit with the couple in the other truck. The friendship cultivated over decades of such mornings was evident in the easy banter, teasing, laughter and discussions of topics only a farmer could understand.
     Shortly, an army of similar trucks appeared from the empty streets, seemingly out of nowhere, but actually from the Willamette Valley and as far away as the coast, eastern Oregon and eastern Washington. The circle of visiting farmers grew as people emerged from the trucks, hugged and caught up on news. Few trucks had logos, but everyone seemed to know which one belonged to whom as it pulled in.
     The two women managers gave the signal and everyone eased into their spots to begin set-up and unloading. Tom quipped that one of the managers, Ginger, was perfectly qualified for the job. "She has degrees in food science and primate behavior," he said.
     As magically and quietly as the army of trucks appeared, so did Tom's Beaverton market crew, right on time. All live in the greater Portland area and arrive by a smorgasbord of transportation, from bike, bus/skateboard, zip car or their own. Some carpool. Most have been with Tom three years or more; one, Regina, lived and worked on Tom's farm when she was in school and served as a nanny for their son. You'd be hard pressed to find a nicer group of young people. They obviously enjoy the work and each other and love the food they are surrounded by most of the day. Their resulting healthy diets contribute to their constant energy doing set-up, moving heavy totes and equipment and taking everything down at the end of the day.
   The word "choreography" came to mind as the canopy posts were pulled from the truck and laid out, then connected, the canopy draped over the top, and all hoisted, appropriately enough, like an old-fashioned barn-raising. Tables came out next and arranged with frequent glances at the map Tom had prepared for their placement and what they'd hold. Occasionally a crew member would suggest something different. The respect Tom gives their ideas, usually agreeing with them, proves the quality of the team is as high as that of the produce they'll be selling within a couple of hours.

Joie and Chris set up by street lamp and the hint of sunrise.

     
    Once the tables are in place, displays are built up with empty totes, boards and fresh tablecloths.  As totes are opened and mounds of produce mushroom, you'd swear it's mid-summer by the aromas of strawberries, basil, garlic and young bunched onions. Those without such enticing aromas make up for it with bold colors: carrots, red onions, peas, chard with colorful stems, lettuces as big as your head, sweet onions the size of baseballs, deep green zucchini (yes, zucchini and strawberries in early May! Remember those greenhouses illuminated by the moonlight?) and muscular fava beans.

Vyasa creates some signs

 Some of the crew have artistic talents, showing not only in the gorgeous displays they create, but the excellent blackboard signs they do each week, according to what's available. Perfectly legible - an amazing feat in this age of daily keyboards!

Joie "supervises" Jakob and Vyasa's sign work

 
     At 8:00 sharp, someone walks through the aisles, ringing a bell to indicate the market is officially open. Within seconds the first transactions are completed by eager customers. At the Denison Farms booth, the mounds shrink as produce flies to the cashiers, then into myriad types of shopping bags and baskets.
     Tom's agile crew deftly restocks and also morph into cordial booth hosts and cashiers, gladly sharing their knowledge of the produce and how to prepare it. Some farm themselves, others garden and/or work in produce departments. They know their stuff because they eat it themselves. Every day. They love to trade or buy from other vendors throughout the day. Many enjoy lunch from a Lebanese vendor, Kombucha from another. Around noon, Regina offered me one of Tom's carrots to scoop in some goat chevre she'd traded with a nearby vendor. I honestly couldn't tell which was better - the sweet crunchy carrot or the cheese. Each complemented the other perfectly; the result was better than anything you'd get in a 5-star restaurant. Sublime sweat equity!

Produce about to do a disappearing act. David in background.

Vyasa, Jakob & Joie making signs in background

       Not surprisingly, nary a single berry made the return trip to Denison Farms. However, plenty of customers vowed they'd be at the market much earlier next week.
     The aroma alone of these berries, originally domesticated in France, now bred in the U.S., would win an arm-wrestle with the huge, red ones in supermarkets. And I mean comparing just the aroma of these to the taste of those!







                                                                                
                                                              

Just before the market opens... Laura, Jakob & Regina in background

  If you don't recognize fresh onions, you'd better get out of the kitchen...

   Did I mention radishes?? Long red and white French Breakfast type, perfect additions to salads from those huge heads of flavorful lettuce, some sweet carrots, fresh peas...

...and chard, kale, spinach, favas. There's your big-bowl main course. A vendor down the way sold bleu-cheese dressing. Artisan breads and goat cheese in the next aisle. Strawberries, of course, right here, for your favorite form of dessert.  There was also beef, lamb, buffalo meat, seafood, eggs, fresh pasta, coffee beans, gelato, baked goods galore, herbs, chocolate and much more. Who said you can't eat well on a local diet?

Tom glances at display while chatting with his berry box supplier (in red shirt, with crutches

Tom Denison (on right, with salt-&-pepper beard) mingles with customers, answering questions. It's one of his favorite parts of farmers' markets. He says he's learned a lot from them over 37 years of farming.

Customer, Phillip & Chris sweeping, Regina in maroon shirt

 


 All good things must come to an end. At 1:30 someone comes through the aisles ringing the same bell that marked the start of the market, calling an end to it. Some of the remaining produce went to gleaners. Carrot tops customers had requested be removed when they bought bunches go to people who stop by to gather them for their livestock. One was a woman who rescues abandoned and abused farm animals. The rest of the scraps will become compost, including what's being swept up here.

Tom disconnects poles while talking with member of Tualitin Valley Gleaners

 The canopy comes down as gracefully as it went up, though the muscles involved are a bit more tired by now. Still, everyone is energized by another successful market day and looks forward to seeing each other again next Saturday.
    Gleaners arrive to take totes of produce to the Senior Center two blocks away. It will be distributed to people in need within 15 minutes of leaving the market.

The stashes accrued by the crew throughout the market await their journeys home in the shade of the truck. Moments after it's collected and everyone bids farewell, Tom backs out to face much heavier traffic and bright sun heating the trip home. He stops for diesel in Albany and unloads the truck once back at the farm. Evenings after the market, he relaxes by playing with his semi-pro table tennis friends. "It feels surprisingly good," he said. "We're not meant to be sitting in a truck for long periods. The game gets my body moving and my mind in a different place after a long day. And it's fun!"